荷兰设计师Iris van Herpen在巴黎美术宫展出了18套“展现裂变和丰富层次”的最新3D打印时装。她的时装系列名为“转移灵魂”,从星空图和外太空星系中汲取灵感,她将这套系列描述为“人体形态的进化”,展现了高科技与美学的惊艳结合,以及对人类未来的思考。
Dutch designer iris van herpen takes inspiration from celestial maps and outer space galaxies with her latest collection, which she describes as an ‘evolution of the human shape’. Herpen’s latest haute couture collection titled ‘shift souls’, presented at palais des beaux-arts in paris, features eighteen looks with ‘concentration on dissected and voluminous layering’.
居住在阿姆斯特丹的Van Herpen展望了未来,实现了技术与创意的完美结合。她定位了Harmonia macrocosmica(一种17世纪的星图)和把设计人类异形的可能性作为她的灵感。
offering a glimpse into the future, the amsterdam-based van herpen achieves the perfect mix of technology and creativity. She sites the harmonia macrocosmica (a 17th-century star atlas) and the possibility of engineered human hybrids as her inspirations.
她用实验方法制作了一系列3D打印、激光切割、算法定义的零件。作品“共生”由渐变染色丝绸制成,丝绸通过PETG精细3D激光切割框架,多层叠加成雕塑形状,创造出色彩渐变的混合鸟形状,像神话生物一样与身体共生。
Her experimental approach sees a collection of 3D printed, laser-cut, algorithm-defined pieces. The ‘symbiotic’ volumes are made from gradient-dyed silks that are multi-layered into sculptural shapes by a fine 3D lasercut frame of PETG to create hybrid bird shapes in dimensional color gradations that hover in symbiosis with the body like mythological creatures.
Herpen以石质、金属色调而闻名,她的作品经常运用各种赭石、紫色和靛蓝。梯度染色的丝绸层层叠叠,以动力学模式和旋转体形貌形成雕塑形状。其他的灵感来自于纽约艺术家、前NASA工程师Kim Keever,他与Van Herpen合作制作过一种云状的服饰。
Known for her stony, metallic hues, herpen went for a multifarious palette of ochre, tyrian purple and indigo. Kinetic patterns and swirling body topographies in layers of gradient-dyed silks form sculptural shapes. Additional inspiration came from new york-based artist and former NASA engineer kKim Keever with whom Van Herpen collaborated with on a cloud-like dress.
该系列最主要的一件作品是“转移灵魂”连衣裙,特点是多层白色丝绸面板,这些面板是热粘合到三维图纸上的。激光切割的黑色聚酯薄膜和棉布构成图案,隐藏和显示了变形的面孔,创造出超现实的幽灵般的形象。该系列的另一个亮点是“共生”连衣裙,由渐变色红色和白色丝绸面料制成,创造出混合鸟图案。
The title piece of the collection is the ‘shift souls’ dress featuring layers of white silk panels which have been heat-bonded to three-dimensional drawings. Lasercut of black mylar and cotton, these illustrations hide and reveal anamorphic faces, creating surreal spectral anatomy. Another highlight in the collection is the ‘symbiotic’ dress made from gradient-dyed silk panels of shuiro red and white, creating a hybrid bird pattern.
作为时装秀的尾声,Iris van Herpen与当代艺术家Nick Verstand合作,利用有形的激光墙分割空间,展现出云雾缭绕的梦幻景象。她在后台透露,正在为一家网站2020年在巴黎筹办一个大型展览。设计师也在写作一本新书,并且正在完成她的第一个大型建筑项目——一座位于荷兰某地区的自然历史博物馆,现在仍处于封闭状态。
For the finale of the show, Iris van Herpen collaborated with contemporary artist Nick Verstand, subdividing the space using walls of materialized laser light, revealing a dreamscape of circulating clouds. Backstage she revealed that she is working on a major exhibition for an undisclosed site in paris for 2020. The designer is also working on a new book and is in the completion stages on her first big architecture project, a natural history museum located somewhere in the netherlands, which is still under wraps.
“为创作‘转移灵魂’,我关注了人类形态的演变,通过时间慢慢实现创作,以及神话中女性形象的混合”,Herpen解释说,“特别是日本神话身份变化中的想象力和流动性,给我带来了灵感,去探索身份的深层含义,以及在我们当前数字体的融合中,它如何变得无形和易变。”
“For ‘shift souls’ I looked at the evolution of the human shape, its idealization through time and the hybridization of the female forms within mythology’, Herpen explains. “Especially the imagination and the fluidity within identity change in japanese mythology gave me the inspiration to explore the deeper meaning of identity and how immaterial and mutable it can become within the current coalescence of our digital bodies.”